In many cases, overheating issues in the Kawasaki Mule might not stem from the radiator itself. The vehicle's temperature sensors could be bunk, the water pump could be bad, or there could be air in the associated coolant lines. To avoid spending a bunch of money on parts and components you may not even need, if your rig is overheating, we'd suggest to look and see if there's coolant flowing through the system. If the motor is hot but the radiator is cold, you might have restricted flow inside the radiator causing fluid to flow either too slow or not at all. On machines like the 2008 3010 Diesel Mule, there is a bleeder valve before and after the water pump. Open both and make sure fluid comes out each valve, and if it doesn't, you should check the radiator for any blockages. Alternatively, your Kawasaki Mule water pump might need to be replaced, or your temp sensor could be malfunctioning and telling the ECU that the engine is overheating when it isn't. But regardless of whether there's a tiny hairline crack in the head that allows exhaust gasses into the coolant system, pressurizing it, and causing an instant air-lock, or if user error caused irreparable damage to your Kawasaki Mule radiator, get exactly what you need for an better-performing UTV radiator here at Everything Kawasaki Offroad.
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